In the ninth month – Hagi
In one of the most poignant scenes of The Tale of Genji when Murasaki is dying, she writes her last poem:
“So briefly rests the dew upon the hagi
Even now it scatters in the wind.”
I associate Hagi with all the poetry and romanticism of Japan and it was one of the first things I planted in my garden. I love how it cascades over my front porch in the autumn.
A ‘Hagi’ Bush Clover in September. It spills over my front porch.
Bush Clover ( Lespedeza Japonica), known in Japan as ‘Hagi’, is one of the seven grasses of autumn and is mentioned in hundreds of verses of the Manyoshu poetry anthology compiled in the 9th century. Hagi is associated with dew and fleeting qualities of life.
In the Hein period of Sei Shonagaon, clothing was formal and women wore many layers of kimono. Color combination of the layers was of prime importance and the names given to the colors were associated with nature, usually plants and flowers. There was a ‘Hagi’ combination of maroon over spring-shoot green, worn only in the autumn.
When I was in Japan I saw Hagi growing everywhere. Brushwood fences are even made from it’s branches.
Brushwood fence at the Imperial Palace, Kyoto.
Brush fence Shimogama Shrine
Hagi, just beginning to bloom, at Byodo-in.
Things worth seeing
I find it strange that Sei Shonagon doesn’t have a list for favorite foods in her Pillow Book. Certainly food is a compelling topic. But for her, ink or paper or the color of one’s dress is more noteworthy. She does list “Things worth seeing”.
Certainly the food in Japan would fit. The sweets, bento boxes and kaiseki meals are all visually amazing besides being incredibly delicious. I haven’t stopped longing for Kyoto Udon.
I will add Japanese food to my own list of “Things worth traveling for” or “Things about Japan that one longs for”.
Here are slides of some of the great food I had in Japan when I was last there. I notice that I use the word “best” over and over again when describing the photos. Every meal was the best. Every place we went was the best. Over and over again.
A basket for sweets
Three friends came for tea the other morning. Even at 10:30 the July heat was intense. My task in the tearoom was to create a feeling of coolness. Baskets are a wonderful way to do this.
I made the green sweets I called ‘Jewels of Moss’ which gives an image of a shady cool spot by a stream with soft green moss growing over stones. The little sweets to the right are called Kampeto, pressed sugar clusters.
This is a Japanese made basket. I don’t know the name of the maker. It’s modern and I found it at the Cooper Hewitt Museum in NYC. My guests loved it.
The sweets are easy to make. The ingredients are simple. Don’t be shocked by the amount of sugar.
11-13 g Kanten (agar agar)
1 3/4 C water
2 Cups sugar
flavor or color
1 – Kanten or “agar agar” is a type of seaweed sold in bars. Soak the Kanten in the water for about an hour.
2 – Bring the water and kanten mixture to a boil, then reduce to a very low flame and allow the mixture to simmer until all of the kanten has dissolved (around 15 minutes). It is important to keep the lid on the pot so as not to loose much moisture, but keep it ajar to insure the liquid does not boil over.
3 – Strain the kanten mixture through a sieve, into the sugar which you would have prepared in another pot.
4 – Cook on low to medium flame, watching carefully. Do not let this boil over. After about 15 minutes, small bubbles will form around the edges. Eventually, the mixture will become more viscous. It is the right consistency when little threads form between the fingers when you pinch a little of the hot mixture. If these threads break it is not done yet.
5 – Here is the point where you could add a little food coloring and flavoring. You can experiment with different flavors or fruit syrups. It is important to note that fruit juices will not work as the acid in the fruit causes the kanten to lose its ability to congeal. Liquors and wines (like plum wine) can also add a nice flavor, but the drying time will be longer.
6 – Pour into a pan or an empty, clean milk or juice carton. While the kanten is cooling take a piece of paper and skim off any bubbles that appear.
7- After one day or even a few hours the kanten will have set. Remove the jellied brick. If using the milk carton just tear it off.
This is a Japanese pan with removable insert. I slid a knife around the outside of the Kanten to remove.
Cut the Kanten into strips, then cut again into little crystals.
Put the cut crystals on parchment paper and loosely cover with a paper towel. Keep covered for two to three days. Turn the sweets every so often so that all sides get exposed to air. After a few days (depending on the humidity) the outside will get a sugary crunch coating.
After completely dry, you can store these sweets in a tin for up to 2-4 weeks.
In case you don’t want to make them, here’s a place that makes these sweets which they call Sea Glass. They look beautiful. Yume Asian Confections
